Day 3, May 25th, 2025 – Mesa Verde National Park: Cliffs, Culture, and Canyon Silence

 On May 25th, I woke up with the sunrise, packed up my tent, and hiked back to the parking lot. Before heading out, I made sure to refill my water and toss my trash. A few rock climbers—wild-looking and full of energy—were getting ready nearby. They had slept in their cars and were gearing up for their climbs. They looked like they belonged to the mountains. The drive to Mesa Verde National Park was absolutely beautiful. I passed by Trout Lake again—gorgeous as ever. I wanted to paddleboard there, but it was still too cold. 

I reached Mesa Verde around 10:30 a.m., starting with a stop at their stunning visitor center. I loved the architecture. I picked up a few small souvenirs before heading to Morefield Campground, located within the park. I was genuinely surprised by how many amenities were available: a coffee shop, market, restaurant, showers, laundry, and even a gas station. I was able to choose my own campsite, and for $39, it felt like a great deal (the campground is privately managed, not by Recreation.gov).

Once I had secured my campsite, it was time to explore. I had no idea how massive the park was until I started driving. From the visitor center to the far end of the park is about a one-hour drive, with several scenic loops in between. The most iconic sites, Cliff Palace and Balcony House—require reservations and guided tours. The ticket prices were high, and honestly, I didn’t mind skipping the tours. I got more time to hike and take in the views from above, which were still stunning.

Mesa Verde is known as a “window to the past,” preserving over 4,700 archaeological sites, including 600 cliff dwellings. The Ancestral Puebloans lived here around A.D. 550 to 1300, building homes directly into canyon walls, something you have to see to fully appreciate.

Some of the sites I visited included Sun Temple, Oak Tree House, Fire Temple, Soda Canyon Overlook (South), and the House of Many Windows

Hiking through these ancient structures, surrounded by canyons and cliff walls, made me feel grounded in history. You could sense how people adapted to life here, immersed in nature, surviving and thriving for generations.

I hiked close to 7 miles that day. Along the way, I met a family with young kids who clearly didn’t have enough water. When I asked if they had enough, they said yes, but their bottle was less than half full with 2 miles still to go. I gave them some of my extra water. A bit later, I met another family, and after asking the parents, I offered two small oranges to their kids. The smile on that kid’s face was worth it.

After the hike, I returned to the ranger station around 6 p.m. and spent some time relaxing on the balcony, watching turkey vultures fly over Spruce Tree House, soaking in the silence. Most visitors had left by then, so it felt like I had the place to myself.

I headed to the campground market before it closed at 8 p.m. to pick up a few snacks. Then I pitched my tent, enjoyed a cold beer and some barbecue chips, and spent part of the night trying (unsuccessfully) to figure out a telescope I had borrowed.

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