Day 6: White Sands National Park – May 28th, 2025

 I woke around 6 a.m. in Lordsburg, New Mexico, to the sound of countless birds singing with the sunrise. I stayed in my tent for almost an hour, simply listening. Some of the bird songs I had never heard before; good start.

After packing up my tent, I stopped at a nearby gas station for coffee. I didn’t need to arrive at White Sands until 5 p.m., since I planned to stay for sunset and had read that the midday heat can be brutal. Plus, it’s not a very large park, so arriving later made sense.

That coffee was easily the best I’ve had on this trip. Caffeinated and energized, I rolled down all four windows and opened the sunroof to enjoy the New Mexico morning breeze. Music up loud all the way; my SoundCloud library encompasses ten years of music, and honestly,  sometimes I feel I could be a DJ with a little training.

Around 10 a.m., I stopped at the Las Cruces Overlook rest and picnic area and spent about an hour there. Workers were watering the trees and gardens, and the smell of straw instantly transported me back to my childhood. It was an unexpectedly nostalgic and unforgettable hour.

Thirty minutes away from White Sands, I saw a sign for the Space Murals Museum/admission free. I turned back to check it out. It wasn’t open yet; I was there just before 11 a.m., which was the opening time, but another car pulled up. I rolled down my window and said, “It’s closed.” The driver replied, “Oh, I know the lady — let’s go in.” So, I followed them.

We were greeted by a sharp, kind older lady from New York who lives onsite and manages both the museum and the gift shop. She gave me a personal 30-minute tour and shared stories behind many of the exhibits, mostly focused on NASA’s presence in New Mexico. The museum was small and local, but warm, inspiring, and filled with care.

After the tour, I chatted with James, one of the guys I’d met in the parking lot. While browsing the gift shop, I found a NASA license plate, perfect for my brother in Germany, who collects them. James lit up when I told him, he said he’d always wanted a German license plate. I promised I’d send him one after my trip. A few minutes later, he gave me his watch as a gift and bought me a postcard with his contact info on it. Turns out, his last name was German.

Before I left, James and the New Yorker recommended visiting Elephant Butte Reservoir, saying it was a great detour since it was still early for White Sands. I checked the map and to the lake we go.

Elephant Butte is the largest lake in New Mexico. When I arrived, I found just a few boats and some large military vehicles. It was midday and boiling. But the water was shockingly cold, and I couldn’t resist. I pulled out my paddleboard and went for it; I managed about a mile, but the boats made large waves, and it didn’t feel too safe. But still paddling alone in a cold mountain-fed lake in the desert was an unforgettable moment.

 

I made sure to leave by 3 p.m. and arrived at White Sands right around 5 p.m. It was still extremely hot. At the visitor center, I asked about camping inside the park, but nope, not allowed. They gave me a map of nearby campgrounds.

I decided to do two hikes: the 2-mile Primitive Backcountry Campsites trail and the 5-mile Alkali Flat Trail.  The sunset hike was amazing. I took a lot of photos of the white sand hills, then sat on one and just enjoyed the sunlight, shadows, and quiet. It was a place like no other, I felt thankful and amazed to be there. 

I left the park just past 9 p.m; stopped by the visitor center to refill my water, and searched for a place to camp. Just four miles away, I found Holloman Lake, a public site with no amenities — but it was perfect. No other campers, just peace, stars, and the glow of moonlight reflecting on the water.

I pitched my tent, cooked some noodles, and lay down under the stars, trying to get some sleep.

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